For the last six months, we have been living in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. I think this is a wonderful moment to talk about our experience and describe what it’s like to live in this part of the world. For our own benefit.
Is this a nice place for you to settle down? Is Tbilisi a good long-term investment? In this video, I address some of the most pressing concerns you may have about your time in Tbilisi and provide some insight into what to expect.
The basics of moving to Tbilisi
We opted to relocate to Tbilisi because we wanted to establish a long-term home base. When we decided to relocate to Georgia, we were living in Northern Spain and had grown weary of the frequent travel. We were also looking for an inexpensive area to reside.
We decided to go to Tbilisi after getting in contact with a few expatriates in the area, checking into apartment rental pricing, and considering the fact that we could remain in Georgia for up to 365 days a year without a visa. As a result, we gathered our belongings and made our way out of town.
Nevertheless, after just a few weeks in this city, we began to wonder whether it was the correct choice for us.
Maybe your view differs from mine. What we view as a drawback, you could see as a benefit. I’m not the kind of person who merely sings praises and ignores the facts. Ultimately, I want to consider both the good and bad aspects of a place.
It’s up to you to decide whether Tbilisi is the right choice for you after reading this. Please feel free to ask any more questions in the comments section below.
TBILISI’S COST OF LIVING
Some tourists (particularly those who visit Tbilisi for a week or two) say that everything here is extremely inexpensive or virtually free when it comes to the cost of living in Tbilisi. Perhaps it is, when compared to cities like London, Paris, or other large European ones.
It is true that Tbilisi is a relatively poor city, yet we can witness to its high cost of living, even if it isn’t the wealthiest one.
Food Prices in Tbilisi
Tbilisi’s food isn’t inexpensive. Depending on where do you and how much you eat, you may expect to spend around the same as you would in many European cities.
We prepare our most at home and spend around $70 per week on groceries. This total comprises a wide variety of foods, such as fruits, vegetables, cheeses, cereals, and the odd piece of meat, as well as wine and mineral water. Many fruits and vegetables are bought in from other nations and are thus more expensive. Seasonal and low-cost, local food is readily available.
In Tbilisi, gluten-free and dairy-free foods are almost unheard of. The ones that do exist are outrageously priced (one almond milk box costs between $6 and $7). Seafood is also expensive.
Dinner for two at the eatery will set you back between $15 and $20. The average price of a latte is between $3 and $4. We spend $5-$7 for two khachapuri in more modest cafés that serve the dish (excluding drinks.)
When it comes to wine’s pricing, I was surprised. Honestly, it’s hard to find a terrible bottle of wine in Georgia. Although the flavour may not be appealing, the quality is always excellent.
A modest bottle of Saperavi or Tsinandali costs 10 GEL, or about $4. Wines from Kvevri start at 25 GEL ($10), making them an affordable treat (an old method of wine production in huge earthen vessels buried in the ground.)
In Tbilisi, the cost of renting a monthly apartment
If you want to stay in Tbilisi for an extended period of time, finding an apartment in the Old Town may be difficult. In most cases, Airbnb hosts start at $30 per night and earn more money from daily rents than monthly ones.
So why bother building a foundation in the middle of it all? Noise, crowds, and pollution are constantly increasing.
In general, the areas of Tbilisi where foreigners like to reside are the ones in and around the districts of Vake, Saburtalo, Nutsubidze Plato, Ortachala, and Avlabari. Tbilisi’s coolest districts are explained in depth in this article.
Vake and Avlabari, on the other hand, would be located towards the middle. There, the starting price for a freshly renovated, roomy, and pleasant flat is $400. You can acquire a lovely one-bedroom apartment for this amount of money. There are, of course, smaller and more basic apartments available for less money.
Just bear in mind that Georgia no longer has central heating as a result of the breakup of the Soviet Union. Everyone does everything he can to keep his house warm.
Electric heaters are often seen in Old Town apartments. Some form of gas heating radiator, usually mounted on the wall and only in one room, may be found in newly constructed homes. Wall-mounted heating radiators are standard in newly constructed apartments. Each apartment has a gas heating system installed on the balcony.
To ensure that you’ll be warm in the winter, I recommend renting an apartment in a recently constructed apartment complex.
There are also flats available for as little as $150-200 a month. However, be prepared to stay in an ancient flat, often of the kommunalka kind, dating back to your grandmother’s era. Since at least 1985, no work has been done on the property. There were many generations of furniture and plumbing. We don’t see many washing machines or refrigerators around here.
Tbilisi is a great place to rent a long-term flat, either via a broker or online.
We made a different choice. We rented a one-month stay in a new Airbnb unit. As soon as we arrived in Tbilisi, we decided to prolong our stay with the landlord for a few more months. Do the same if you want. Many of my Tbilisi-based friends have stayed in their long-term apartments thanks to Airbnb.
Although not always pleasant, Tbilisi’s public transportation system is well-developed and convenient. Furthermore, it lacks the sophistication of its European counterparts.
Buses are running on time on the capital’s major thoroughfares. “Marshrutka” buses, on the other hand, may come and go as they want. They lack air conditioning, are dilapidated and often arrive late.
Getting to a neighbourhood that’s a little out of the way might be difficult.
For example, we reside in Upper Vake, which is a short distance from the city centre. No matter how long we wait for a marshrutka, getting in and out of our area takes a long time. Our typical wait time is between 25 and 30 minutes. In the city centre, however, there are several buses to choose from.
Most bus stations have a timetable posted on a board for passengers to see. There is no schedule at the stop, but you may still get it by sending a text message with the stop number to a short number (both of which are listed at the stop).
Download the TTC app to see the status of marshrutkas in real time.
Additionally, Tbilisi has a metro system. But there are just two branches and it doesn’t span a large area.. From 6 a.m. until 12 a.m., the metro is open. Peak hours might be a little daunting since so many people are moving about at the same time. Even yet, this is the only means of transportation that can get you from point A to point B without any traffic jams at all.
From 50 to 80 tetri ($0.2-0.5) is the cost of public transportation in Tbilisi. Buses, marshrutkas, and cable cars may all be purchased with the same ticket. You have the mode of paying with cash, a Metro money card, or a credit card.
Employing or establishing an enterprise in Tbilisi
Georgia has a high unemployment rate and average incomes that aren’t the highest in the world. The dismal living standards in the nation are to blame.
Nearly $1000 GEL ($400) is considered a decent wage in the country. Finding work in Tbilisi, Georgia, as a foreigner is difficult, and it’s debatable if it’s even worth it. There is little hope of getting a suitable work even if you have a college degree and fluency in three languages (Georgian, Russian, and English).
Some expats we’ve met in Tbilisi have found employment via a transfer rather than coming in the city looking for jobs.
As a result, I wouldn’t place my faith on local openings.
You should adopt your own company plan. In Georgia, starting a company takes just two days. Or even one, if you’re ready to shell out for individual business registration and pay double tax.
Companies may be formed in Tbilisi
It’s easy to start a company at the city’s heart, at what seems like giant white mushrooms (if you look at the city from above). The House of Justice is the place to go. Everything you need to get done is right here, in one convenient location.
More than 300 services are available in the House of Justice, which sees up to 15,000 people every day. The House of Justice is the place to go if you want to register a vehicle, acquire a birth certificate, or create a company.
If you are seeking to kick start your own business in Georgia, you’ll need to bring your passport, a copy of your apartment’s rental agreement, and $8.
The following day, you may pick up your registration certificate at the House of Justice or print it off from your personal account whenever you choose. The certificate will be available in an hour if you pay 50 GEL ($20).
After completing this step, you’ll need to go to the IRS to complete your registration as a taxpayer. The service costs 10 GEL, which is around $4.
If you work on your own and don’t sell anything, you may register as a micro-entrepreneur. There is a limit on the amount of money that may be exempted from taxes and can be submitted online once per year. Easy!
TBILISI’S CULTURAL LIFE
When you go to a tiny capital from a large provincial metropolis, the world around you becomes a true kaleidoscope of occurrences.
However, if you’re used to a bustling metropolis, the Georgian capital may disappoint you.
The displays at one of the museums are usually intriguing. Wine, cheese, and tea festivals abound at the height of the summer season. Concerts and open-air activities are also held. Tbilisi’s nightlife is also rather diverse.
On Saturdays throughout the summer, the famed “Sukhishvili” dance troupe performs. Batumi has a Black Sea Jazz Festival that you may attend by using a high-speed rail. Check out this website for additional information about Tbilisi concerts and events.
Tbilisi is a great destination for those who like a night out on the town. Numerous international magazines have consistently included Bassiani in their lists of the world’s greatest nightclubs.
Gourmets and foodies will be spoilt for choice when it comes to where to eat. For those who loves to eat out, there are several options available. It’s possible to have French-style breakfast, khinkali, Thai snacks, and a burger all in the same area.
Hiking paths, lakes, and a mountaintop park to escape the heat are all conveniently located inside the city.
There is nothing more I can add to this.
As an expat living in Tbilisi, there are several advantages.
The cost of living in Tbilisi is low, making it an ideal place for a digital nomad to set up shop. People here are laid-back and welcoming, and the cuisine is wonderful. If you start your own firm, you won’t have to pay a lot in taxes.
Renting an apartment means getting a very high-quality home. And the cost of living continues to be affordable (for those who make a Western world salary.) $400 to $500 per month is all it takes to live in an immaculate apartment in a well-kept area. Keep an eye out for newer construction and steer clear of the area’s commercial core.
It costs roughly 50 lari ($20) each month to pay for utilities in the winter, and 25 lari ($10) per month in the summer. Using the internet in Tbilisi will set you back around $12 or 30 GEL.
The apartment we’re in today is by far the greatest of all the ones we’ve leased throughout our time as digital nomads. Our hosts are kind, giving, and empathetic.
In Tbilisi, you’ll encounter the same thing. And there will be a wide variety of lovely residences from which to pick.
Tbilisi has a pleasant climate. It doesn’t snow or become too cold in the winters despite the darkness and rain. Early in the summer, temperatures may soar to dangerous levels. The only way to appreciate it is to be able to put up with it. In reality, December in Tbilisi is a wonderful time to visit. The city is awash in colour and brimming with holiday cheer.
Furthermore, security is a benefit. Tbilisi has a lot of impoverished people living there, yet it’s a really safe location to be.
WHY LIVING AS A FOREIGN RESIDENT IN TBILISI IS NOT FOR ALL
Nature is nearby, yet it’s a long way away.
One of the prime reasons we were so pleased about relocating to Tbilisi was the proximity to the mountains.
No matter how busy our lives are, we want time in the great outdoors and need to know that we can do so at least once a week, no matter where we live.
This felt like the ideal opportunity to visit Georgia, a little nation nestled in the Caucasus Mountains with its own coastline of magnetic sands.
To begin with, we were all giddy with anticipation. We also thought we could do weekend road trips throughout the nation. So we may go from Tbilisi to the area of Kazbegi or Kakheti. However, in practise, it proved to be more challenging than we had anticipated.
Apart from the mountains, Tbilisi seems to be close to several more breathtakingly stunning natural features. In practise, though, getting to them has proven to be a challenge.
Buses (also known as “marshrutkas”) often fail to arrive at their designated stops on time. Being a passenger in one of these vehicles is a nightmare because of the absence of driving culture. As a result, you can’t go to many areas by public transportation. You’ll either need a car or a taxi at some point in your life. Neither is a low-cost option.
The cost of renting a car on a daily basis ranges from 30 to 50 euros. It’s more expensive in the summer. Read my guide if you’d want to learn more about renting a vehicle in Georgia.
Tbilisi is home to a number of beautiful parks and lakes. Even yet, once you realise how much beauty there is to be found outside of the city, you’ll want to leave. As a nature lover, you’ll never be satisfied with a metropolis.
So, if you’re an expat or digital nomad in Tbilisi and you’d want to spend more time outside, don’t hold your breath.
Tbilisi and the rest of Georgia have no tradition of car ownership.
Only in Georgia did we discover just how gloomy a road trip and driving can be. Honestly, we’ve driven in numerous places throughout the globe, but something about the driving or riding in a marshrutka or cab in Tbilisi freaks us out so much that we’ve never experienced it anywhere else.
In addition to failing to utilise their turn signals, the majority of motorists in this area tailgate, speed past stop signs, run red lights, cut one another off, weave through traffic, and converse on their cell phones at all times, all of which enhance the likelihood of a collision.
Pre-accident driving circumstances occur often when driving in Tbilisi. Occasionally, it’s so intense that we both begin to shake.
We had to adjust our plans a few times since the weather was so severe that we had to go back to our hotel or to a nearby café to take a break. We needed a break from the pressure and discomfort of the situation.
The worst part is that you’re a pedestrian.
Having to cross a street or stroll on a sidewalk more often is a greater source of anxiety.
In our opinion, it’s out of the question. The subject was posed a few times to drivers, but they would either laugh us off the road or say something like: “accidents happen, what can you do about them?”
The only thing we can do for ourselves is avoid living in such a setting, which disrupts our well-being and weakens us from the inside out.
It doesn’t matter where you’re from, in my opinion. Because I’m originally from Ukraine, a country notorious for its awful driving habits, it’s been difficult for me to learn to cope with and tolerate the dangers of the road.
If you’re anything like us, you’re probably going to have a lot of anxiety about driving in Tbilisi. Then then, as a pedestrian, you’re completely insignificant.
Tbilisi has too many depressing things.
Because I’m from Ukraine, a former Soviet republic like Georgia, I’m prone to prejudice. Tbilisi, and Georgia in general, remind me a lot of Ukraine from 20 years ago, although I’m not sure why. I was desperate to flee from them at the time. Twenty years later, I’m still seeing the same things in Tbilisi as I did back then. They’ve also disturbed me a great deal.
Some of these might make you melancholy as well. Particularly if they are encountered on a regular basis.
Poverty is widespread in the nation. It is evident in Tbilisi as well. There are charming streets dotted with quaint cafés, hip boutiques, and posh automobiles. The shacks where people survive on $5 a day are just around the corner.
The city of Tbilisi is littered with decrepit, abandoned, and neglected structures. You’ll find them all over the place, so you’ll have to be cautious while you’re near them. As a visitor, witnessing these homes may be an interesting experience in Tbilisi. If you plan on staying there for a long time, you may not like seeing them every day.
In Tbilisi, you’ll find a lot of stray dogs, unsustainable development, piles of dog faeces on the streets, and a high degree of pollution and rubbish. If you’re like us, that is, if that matters to you at all.
Environmentally Unfriendly Town in the World
Tbilisi’s hostility toward the environment is one among the things that makes us uneasy about calling this city home.
The specifics are readily apparent without having to consult any numbers (although, here is just one of many posts on this topic.) Even after only a few days of living in the city you begin to notice how difficult it is to breathe, how suffocatingly thick the air is and how much waste is littering our streets.
There are a lot of unclean, old, and out-of-date automobiles on the road that operate on diesel, which produces more smoke and particles than gasoline-powered vehicles. More and more private automobiles are entering the city’s streets every day, resulting in an even greater pollution problem.
Trash is yet another major issue.
In general, people don’t recycle and don’t believe it matters. Only two landfills in Georgia now fulfil international criteria. They’re nowhere near Tbilisi, either.
Typically, when garbage arrives to a landfill, it is compressed and covered with dirt by specific machinery. There are no things in place to keep rubbish from getting into touch with the surrounding soil and, more importantly, groundwater.
It’s dangerous. And it’s not only for the people who live right next to the landfill. As the precipitation permeates through the waste, it pollutes the groundwater, which then seeps into the rivers and lakes.
Numerous waste management projects and programmes have failed due to apathy and a lack of action on the part of the majority of inhabitants.
It doesn’t matter how hard we strive to reduce our impact on the environment in Tbilisi. There are no environmental safeguards in place across the board in the nation. Adding to the melancholy,
Conclusion
As a foreigner or a digital nomad, there is no ideal area for you to reside. There are benefits and disadvantages to every location. Moreover, you are the only one who can determine whether or not you’ll feel comfortable there.
Personally, we think Tbilisi is a terrific short-term home base. We still learn about another culture and experience something fresh. But staying in Tbilisi as digital nomads for an extended period of time is very doubtful, and it’s not something we’d consider doing.
After reading this, I hope you have a better picture of what Tbilisi is like. Is it going to be a good place for you to call home? The more information I can get, the better!